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Good point. Thanks for the suggestion.

Pleasure!

Thank you! It's a lovely lens. I think the most difficult aspect of product photography, eg wristwatches, is the lighting. It's not easy getting nice, even lighting with no glare or shadows. Good luck, and enjoy your new lens!

@@PhilUKNet - Thank you mate! Lighting is my passion. 20 years in, I'm still obsessive over it like Rain Man! LOL!

Probably the difference with lens coatings or filters. I use skylight filters on my lenses just to protect the front element, but these can change the colour of the sky. For the comparison, I should have removed the filters, but I forgot.

@@PhilUKNet thanks for sharing that!

@FelipeOliveira-zi7ly Pleasure! I just checked, and there is a Hoya 1B Skylight on the FD lens and a Hoya UV on the EF lens. It was my mistake. I should have removed the filters. Thanks for pointing this out.

My son plays football, and I take quite a lot of photos of him playing. I have never considered using my 400mm lens. When he plays indoors, I use my EF 85mm f/1.8, and outdoors, I use my EF 70-200mm f/4L IS. I use a Canon EOS M6 Mark 2, which has an APS-C sensor. I use both a standard Canon adapter and also a Viltrox speedbooster. The speedbooster reduces the focal length by x0.71 but gives me an extra stop of light, which is very useful indoors. For the football shots I do (especially using a crop sensor camera), the 400mm lens is just too long. It would be very difficult to keep fast-moving action within the frame. It's also a bit slow, especially indoors. In my personal experience, lenses for football don't need to be any longer than 200mm, and speed is important. A lens I've considered buying for this is the EF 135 mm f/2L. An f/2.8 70-200mm would also be good. These are just my personal opinions based on taking photos of my son playing football. Other people's experience may vary. It also depends on what kind of football. When my son plays, I watch from the touchline, and I'm very close. If you are taking photos of professional football and you are in the stands a long way from the pitch, then yes, a longer lens will be better because of the extra reach.

It really is. Optically, the best lens I have. Is your 0.71 adapter the Viltrox one? I have a Viltrox 0.71x speed booster for my M6 Mark 2. I'd like an R7, but it's late to the game now, so I'm waiting for the Mark 2 version.

@@PhilUKNet I went with the Canon version. 2 small annoying things that you need to accept the message when the camera wakes and manually remove fringing since Canon refuse to support it (even though the meta data knows it’s adapted with their own 0.71)). I think that’s a sensible decision to hold out for mark 2, I think rolling shutter will be improved

@mvp_kryptonite Thanks for the info. I'm in no hurry to move to EOS R, and the rolling shutter seems to be the biggest criticism with the R7. Hopefully, that will be fixed or improved with a Mark 2 version. To be honest, I'd be happy sticking with EOS M, but Canon have now abandoned that system.

That's right. On the latest IBIS bodies, these old lenses should be pretty good - provided your eyesight is still good enough for focusing manually! I owned the EF 70-210mm f/4L before I got the IS version. As you say, the optics are very good. However, when I moved to the new version, I found the IS really useful. I've seen these advertised used for very low prices and they are great bargains. Thanks for your comment!

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That's the first time I've heard the A1 described as sexy!

Yes lol😂, just that some controls are too small that lead to some annoyance

Hello Beth. I've only ever seen this error after messing around with the stop-down lever. If you push in the stop-down lever then release it without taking a shot, it can cause this error. To clear it, push the film advance lever into its fully retracted position. Underneath is the multiple exposure lever. Push this to the left, and then advance the film lever. This will cock the shutter without advancing the film, and it should clear the error condition. If it doesn't, then maybe you have a fault with the camera or the lens which will need fixing. Good luck!

I haven't used it for a while (a few months), but I just plugged it in to check, and it all looked normal.

I believe it does.

It certainly makes life interesting! The bits I've caught on video have been quite mild. I've seen far worse, but no video.

I had the same problem. When I first got the camera, I tried the parking surveillance feature but decided it wasn't any use. I haven't used it since.

Mine was working fine until this weekend I have the same problem as you do.did you manage to fix it

@@davidtavdis5170 no. It seems that this is the way it was intended to work. I've learned that from the support team.

The hot climate isn't good for batteries. I hope you have success with the charger. It can't fix serious issues, but it can remove some sulfation from the plates and give the battery a slightly longer life.

The camera uses 135 film, more commonly known as 35mm. This is very common, and even now, it is still easily available. Next, think about the ISO value you want. Lower numbers (100) are less sensitive to light but are less less grainy and provide more detail. High numbers (400/800/1600) are more sensitive, thus better for low light, but grainier. If you're shooting outside on bright days, 100 or 200 will be fine. Your next decision is colour or B/W. After that, there are many different brands and film stocks. It's just personal preference. Kodak Portra, I find, is really good for skin tones. Just experiment and find something you like. A roll of 35mm film normally has 36 frames, but you can also find film with 18 or 24 frames. Hope this helps!

@@PhilUKNet thank you!! I appreciate how quickly you responded

My pleasure! Some of the functions seem over-complicated, although I'm sure they are useful at times. I was out with the 300TL a few days ago. I just had my T90 CLA'ed and wanted to test it, so went out to do some street photography with an FD 135mm f/2 and the 300TL. You can see the results on my latest video. I just set everything on Auto, including the 300TL, and the TTL did a great job managing the flash exposure. When I'm out taking photos, I just think about getting the shot and I don't want to worry about camera and flash settings. That's the beauty of the P setting on the 300TL and it works well!

I live in southern Thailand. The outdoor temperature is sometimes +40C. I haven't checked inside the car, but probably +50C. I've been using the camera for several years and have not experienced any heat related issues. That's all I can say.

Thank you!

The internal battery is only 500mAh, so it won't work for very long. It should have a constant supply from the car battery.

It won't. The camera has a G sensor, which is triggered by the physical movement that occurs when there is impact. It doesn't work like a PIR sensor that can detect motion in the field of view.

@@PhilUKNet thank you for your response 🙏

Mostly, I use analyse mode or charge mode. When batteries are charging, I couldn't work out why the mAh was so high compared to the rated capacity. As you say, it's efficiency. This reading is what the charger puts out, not what the battery accepts. Analyse mode, I believe, measures the battery capacity on the discharge cycle. It's been a bit of a learning curve, but I've learnt more from comments. Thanks for adding to my knowledge!

Thank you! I used a 40D for several years and loved it. The extension tubes are just a way of reducing the minimum focusing distance. This lens is so sharp that you can get decent macro shots with an extension tube. However, it won't work with a 1.4x or 2x extender. I've actually been using this lens a lot recently to get shots of my lad playing football. I've been using a Viltrox speed booster and Canon EOS M6 Mk2. The speed booster gives me another stop of light, so in poorly lit indoor pitches I can use an aperture of f/1.2 with the 85mm f/1.8. This means I can use fairly fast shutter speeds at reasonable ISO levels and freeze the action. For the money, it's a great lens for portraits, macro and action!

@@PhilUKNet Well I “pulled the trigger” this morning and purchased this lens on eBay (Camera store with 3 month guarantee) for £140 including postage….I think that’s reasonable in comparison to some advertised prices!

I bought mine in March 2010 in Thailand. The price with a front lens filter was Bt15,750. The exchange rate then was around Bt50, so approximately £315. If yours is in good condition, that sounds reasonable!

Good idea. When I replaced the battery, I just used the same 500mAh, but a higher capacity should be fine as long as it's the same voltage.

@@PhilUKNet I won’t upgrade it actually I fear the complications with lithium batteries, anyway I have a constant charging from the car battery, all I will do is prolong the 3 wires connections and place it away from the heat

​@@PhilUKNet btw Do you know which pin is the -5V (ground) on this camera? 👌

@@krzysztofstaszewski5607 Sorry, I don't.

Nice! Yes, it is compatible with this lens. The extender will only work with certain lenses, and this is one of them. You will lose a stop of light, so your maximum aperture will be f/4.

A very timely question! I have two A1s about the same vintage - very early 80's. One is still OK, but the other appears to have developed a shutter problem. My T90 also started playing up with the shutter problems that T90s are famous for. I sent it to Steve Sweringen in the US, who is considered something of an expert on these cameras, and it's currently on its way back after being CLA'ed. These cameras were magnificent in their day, but they're all getting very old now. A1s are well over 40 years old, and the cloth shutters only last so long.

Thank you!

Thank you! I, too, have both those lenses. The cameras often came with a 50mm f/1.8. After I bought a 28mm f/2.8, I much preferred the wider angle, and it stayed on the camera most of the time. Have fun!

Well, my first attempt looked ugly, too! I improved on the first version, but it could be improved further. I have an old car and couldn't find a fitted dash cover. I figured that anything I made myself would look ugly. Your idea is exactly what I was thinking. The basic problem is stray light getting into the lens, so just try to construct something (as inconspicuous as possible) near to the front of the lens that will block stray light. As you say, the same as a traditional lens hood. Good luck!

I had to do a lot, but not as many as 465 rolls. That's a lot of film! I wasn't aware of the FF 680W, but being able to scan 36 frames in 30 seconds is impressive. It took me a long time loading 12 frames at a time into the holder. Twenty years isn't bad! I left all my negatives in the UK when I moved to Thailand 21 years ago. I managed to retrieve some around seven years ago. If I ever manage to retrieve the rest, which I hope I do, I will have another mammoth scanning session. It takes a lot of time, but it's worth doing. Thanks for your feedback!

Thank you!

Try to get the front of the camera lens as close to the glass as possible. You could try to do what I did and put small pieces of card close to the camera, the idea being to stop stray light entering the lens.

Felt is good because it absorbs rather than reflects light. It's not an easy problem to fix. CPL filters cut out a lot of light and, as you say, they're not always effective. Good luck!

Pleasure! I hope you got a few good lenses as well! If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

It seems that quite a few A1s are inherited! One of my A1s has recently started playing up, and I've just sent my T90 to the States for repairs. All these cameras are very old now, and finding the right people to repair and service them is becoming increasingly difficult. Anyway, happy shooting!

Thanks, happy shooting to you too!

Hardwire kits allow parking surveillance to be used when the ignition is off. Therefore, they supply voltage all the time. Therefore, I guess that you don't need an internal battery. The battery is used to store the time, date and set up information when the dash cam doesn't have an external electricity supply. I'm not completely sure about this, but as your hardwire kit is always supplying electricity, I don't think you need an internal battery. Best to ask elsewhere, though, as I may be wrong.

@@PhilUKNet thank you soo much for the reply

It's a bit tricky, if you think about how the camera works. Fully manual mode is there for when you want to take complete control, so you're on your own. In manual mode, you're telling the camera that you don't want it to do anything, so why should it help you? If you want the camera to assist with light measurement and exposure, best to use one of the semi-automatic modes.

Thanks, Tom! I've actually seen far worse than anything in the video, but I don't have footage. I'm not sure why I posted the video on this channel. I started another channel 'Expat Living In Thailand' for content about Thailand.

I don't know much about other brands, but it's certainly the best manual focus film camera that Canon ever made. However, the T90's have reached an age now where every camera starts to have problems - mainly sticky shutters. Mine has such a problem, and I can't find a repair service in Thailand that has the necessary experience to fix it. I'm just about to send mine to the US. There's a repair shop in North Dakota where the technician, Steve, has an excellent reputation for fixing T90's. I hope yours is OK!

I had no idea that Sydney was that wet. I always think of Aus as being very hot and dry. Building your own dry box is an interesting project. I guess that it shouldn't be too difficult. You just need a hermetically sealed cabinet, and I believe you can buy Peltier dehumidifiers online from places like ALI Express. My original dry box (the one in this video) started to play up recently after 7 years of use. I'm hoping to fix it, as the cabinet is still perfect, but in the meantime I bought a new ShutterB 160 liter unit. Good luck with your project!

@@PhilUKNet Yes it's a big country with different types of climates. We get lots of rain along the Great Dividing range, that runs for thousands of kilometres up the east coast of Australia. We get snow in the summer from time to time, plenty of snow in the winter, floods, droughts and cyclones. As a mater of fact it's raining in Sydney right now and it's been raining for a few days. The prediction is for another month of rain. Hence our terrible problem with fungus. I am married to a Thai lady that I met in Australia and I also love to visit Thailand. Thanks for your reply.

@@CamperKev Thanks for the info! Best wishes to you and your wife!

Thanks

I'm afraid not. The first attempt (this video) was too big and ugly, so I made a smaller version. I was going to do a third version, but haven't had time. Some comments I received suggested using a 3D printer, but I have no experience and don't have a 3D printer. Sorry 😒

@@PhilUKNet ok. I thought to find your video again as i was browsing to my recent videos and couldt help but notice the glare again. I placed the shopee cpl this morning, will try to remember to take it off at night. Your post on the glare issue is really helpful and practical

@doggodriver I thought it would be a pain to keep taking a CPL off and putting it on again, so I tried to think of a way of fixing the problem at source. The first attempt wasn't perfect, and there's a lot of room for improvement!

Pleasure!

Of course they do 🤪

I didn't know about the fps tip! The camera electronics were designed to leave the film leader out after rewind, but Canon never implemented it. Two joints need soldering together on the PCB, but the camera has to be dismantled to do it. Mine has started playing up. I can't find anyone in Thailand who can fix them, so I'm currently talking to a guy in the States who is something of a T90 expert. Thanks for your feedback!

I'm sure that if you have tools or experience - preferably both - it's not too difficult. I had neither and couldn't find any guidance online. I managed to do it using a small screwdriver, but this damaged the plastic. I have since been told that it can be done with a very thin plastic card. I had no such problems opening the 70mai Pro.

Thanks for the tip. It would be really useful if you could do a video showing how. Just looking at it, there was no obvious way, and the two halves are joined together very firmly.